Top tips for staying in a traditional ryokan
Ryokan is a traditional Japanese Inn and we highly recommend staying in one for at least one night for a unique and authentic Japanese experience.
Ryokan can be more expensive so here is everything you need to know to make the most of your stay.
Choosing a ryokan
Searching for ‘ryokan’ in English does not always find many places so sometimes you need to be a bit creative! There are some websites that will help you book. However, I like to search with google maps and find somewhere close to where we want to stay and then use google translate. You will find that emailing the Ryokan in English is usually ok, they will reply or have someone help them translate if needed.
Many ryokan are located in places with great views such as the Yataro Ryokan in Nagasaki that has an amazing view of the city you can enjoy from your room and during meals.
Some older ryokan are beautiful wooden buildings that transport you back in time. If only the walls of the beautiful Notoya Ryokan in Ginzan Onsen could talk!
Modern ryokans look more like a hotel such as Mount View Hakone and Yataro Ryokan, however, don’t let this dissuade you, the experience will be just as amazing!
Popular places to stay in ryokan include Hakone, Kyoto, Ginzan Onsen, Nagasaki and Mt Koya. However, they can be found all over Japan.
What to look for when booking a ryokan
Half board: Half board means meals are included in the price. Usually a traditional kaiseki meal for dinner and either buffet or kaiseki meal for breakfast. There will often be prices with and without half board (in case you are not sure about the meals or have multiple food allergies) and prices for kids are at different ages.
Kaiseki Meal: This is a beautiful, opulent traditional multi course Japanese meal and part of the experience of staying in a ryokan. Highly recommend at least one kaiseki meal
Dietary preferences: Many traditional and smaller ryokan do not accommodate dietary preferences, however, they will state this on their website so you know before you book.
Families and Children: Some small traditional ryokan do not accept bookings for children 12 and under. We never found this an issue. Look for sites that have prices for children if you are unsure.
Tatami mat room: This is a traditional Japanese room with tatami mats on the floor. Usually with one main room which is set up with a table when you arrive and converted to the sleeping room with futons on the floor at night.
Tatami mat number: This equates to the size of the room although how many people fit in what size room varies. Some say 8 tatami mat room fits three, others say 10 tatami mat room fits up to 5, (although we have managed to fit 6). The advantage of tatami mat rooms is there is more flexibility with numbers and you can fit more in the room if you have a larger group.
Western room: This will have western style beds. Some ryokan have a mix and will have some western beds for parents and tatami mats for the kids.
Bathrooms: Older ryokan may only have shared bathrooms located at the end of the corridor not in your room. It will be stated on the website, just check so you are aware of the set up before you book.
Onsen: An onsen is a hot spring. Many ryokan have onsen, some have private onsen that can be booked so that just you or your family can use them but many are for all guests to use, or even for day visitors. Men and women onsen are separate and you must be naked when you relax in the onsen.
How do I book a Ryokan?
Most ryokan can be booked online through their booking system. Some ask for you to email and contact them to ask about availability. You can email in English and let them know a little bit about yourself. Make sure you show respect and gratitude in your email and show you are looking forward to a traditional experience.
When looking at the availability calendar online, O means availability and X means no availability.
Kids rates: Most ryokan will have the option for kids prices and kids kaiseki meals.
Payment: Most ryokan do not take an online deposit, instead they expect payment on arrival or departure and usually this is in cash. More and more ryokan are accepting credit cards on arrival or departure, however, it is good to have the cash just in case.
On arrival at your Ryokan
On arrival you may be given tea and a sweet or this may be in your room waiting for you.
Dinner booking: On checking in you will be asked what time you would like to book for dinner (if you have half board included) or you may be told your sitting time. It is important to NOT BE LATE. The Kaiseki meal is an event in itself and a traditional Japanese experience not to be missed.
HINT: Don’t plan anything else for the night. By the time you have your meal and a relaxing soak in the Onsen you will want to retire to your room in a state of complete relaxation!
Your bags will be taken to your room which will be set up with tea and sweets at a low table.
Yukatas and slippers will be laid out for you and you can wear these while you are at your ryokan. Definitely wear them going to the onsen. Most people will wear their yukata for dinner but may wear their usual clothes for breakfast in the morning. You do not have to wear the yukata but it is part of the experience! If you are staying in an onsen town you may see people wearing them in the streets.
The futon beds will be folded in the cupboard. Leave them there, they will be set up for you later.
Now it’s time to relax at your ryokan until dinner.
Kaiseki meal
The Kaiseki meal is a beautiful traditional experience. It is held in the dining room at a table set up for your room. Only some ryokan allow it in your room and usually at a cost. There may be other guests in the dining room or you may be partitioned off from others in a private space.
You will be guided to your seats. If you have children, they will indicate the places laid out with the children’s meals. You may be given a menu which will be in Japanese (bring google translate on your phone).
As you start your meal, additional dishes will be brought out to you each perfectly presented. Sometimes one dish will be cooked at the table and you will be guided to when to add ingredients and when to remove them to eat. If you would like some sake, wine or beer with your meal this can be ordered.
Enjoy dish after dish of exquisitely presented meals brought to you. And take lots of photos!
You may find some of the dishes a little strange and the tastes not quite what you are used to but we encourage the kids to take a least a bite of everything because they won’t ever have this dish again! Some of the meals are surprising and so delicious, like this amazing fish which was so sweet!
Rice is served at the end of the meal and then dessert – usually some fruit.
After this meal experience – perhaps a soak in the onsen before bed?
Futons
On returning to your room, the room will be set up with the futon beds on the floor. It looks like one cosy slumber party – the kids love it!
(Oh so be aware before going to dinner to put your bags to one side and clean the kids mess up a bit!)
Onsen
Your Ryokan may have private onsen or they may be shared with other guests. The shared onsen are separated to male and female, even for children.
HINT: Onsen are for relaxing not swimming, splashing or playing so if the kids are really little, then perhaps skip this one, find a private one or find a time when no-one else is there.
Wear your yukata to the onsen. On arrival, there will be baskets set out for your belongings, put everything here, including your yukata and underwear. Towels will be provided including small modesty towels which you can use to cover up as you go into the onsen.
Onsens are used for soaking and relaxing, not washing, so before you get into the onsen, etiquette includes cleaning yourself first. You will find little stools next to low taps with body wash and shampoo. Wash yourself and rinse off completely before getting into the onsen. Use the modesty towel to cover yourself if you need to.
Once clean you can enter the onsen. They are usually hot so you might need to take it slowly and sit on the outside first. Again you can use your modesty towel but don’t put the towel in the water. You can fold it and put it on your head to keep it out of the water. Don’t put your head or hair in the water at any time – even if you have washed your hair. If you have long hair, tie it up so that it does not go in the water.
Once you have had a good relaxing soak (or you can’t manage the heat any more), carefully exit the onsen, making sure you don’t splash anyone. Use clean towels to dry yourself as you go back to your belongings and put on your yukata.
Now completely relaxed you can go back to your room and your cosy futon. A beautiful kaiseki meal, followed by a soak in the onsen, what a perfect traditional evening.
Breakfast
Breakfast the next morning may be another kaiseki meal or a buffet depending on the ryokan. This is usually less formal than the evening meal and the timing is not as strict but still just as beautifully presented and again some of the tastes are not what we are used to.
If you are staying for two nights then your futons will be packed up for you during the day, this may be while you are at breakfast or while you are out during the day.
Checking out
On check out full payment will be required, either by cash or credit card. The ryokan can organise a taxi for you or direct you to the closest train or bus station.
Make sure you visit the ryokan gift shop, they will have a range of local products, known as kyoudo ryouri, some may be produced by the ryokan (like the Ginzan Onsen sake below) and not available anywhere else in Japan – perfect souvenirs of your amazing traditional experience and gifts that will be appreciated if you are staying with Japanese families in other parts of Japan.
At the end of your stay you will be farewelled from the ryokan by the staff, knowing you have had a traditional experience that your family will treasure forever!
