Kamikochi

If you are looking for somewhere to escape the heat of Japanese summer, explore nature, go for a hike or just a walk, if you are looking for a camping adventure or a stay in luxury then Kamikochi is exactly what you are looking for!

We stayed here for two nights (although you can visit as a day trip) and it is a place I would happily go back to.

Kamikochi is open from April 17 to November 15 every year, you will not be able to enter outside of the open season.
Private cars are not allowed into Kamikochi, transport is by bus or taxi only.
For further details, visit the official Kamikochi website, it’s stunning.

Kamikochi is at the base of the Northern Japanese alps (also known as the Hida mountain range) between the Gifu and Nagano prefectures. It’s famous for stunning views of the towering Japanese alps, and is an excellent base for those setting off to climb the alps as well as a number of 1-2hour walking track loops at the base of the alps.

Kamikochi is also home to the famous suspension Kappa Bridge, so named as this area was referenced as the birthplace of the novel ‘Kappa’ by Ryunosuke Akutagawa and as such many of the souvenirs here feature the mythical Kappa and their love of cucumbers.

How to get to Kamikochi

We travelled to Kamikochi from Toyama after our Tateyama hike, however, the area can easily be accessed from Matsumoto, Takayama and even directly from Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto.

Private cars cannot drive into Kamikochi, entry is only by bus or taxi. If you are driving, there are two locations with car parks on the bus route, so you can connect with the bus into Kamikochi, or take a taxi from there.

For full access details refer to the official Kamikochi ‘Getting here’ site it is very comprehensive and in English.

From Matsumoto

At Matsumoto station find the ticket machine that is clearly labelled for the Kamikochi line and purchase tickets all the way through to Kamikochi.

Catch the Highland train from Matsumoto to Shin-Shimashima station (30 minutes).

Then transfer to the Highland bus for Kamikochi (about 60 minutes). I really enjoyed this bus trip, winding through amazing scenery and through quaint towns, although the bus traffic jams in the tunnels were a little dicey, luckily we had very expert drivers that passed each other with millimeters to spare!

There are some direct buses from Matsumoto to Kamikochi – check out the timetable here. Note that buses back from Kamikochi to Matsumoto have to be prebooked. For additional information about the bus to Kamikochi, see the Alpico website.

Orientation around Kamikochi

Kamikochi centres around the Kappa bridge, which is about five minutes walk North from the bus terminal. The Kappa bridge is a suspension bridge that spans the crystal clear waters of the Azusa river with the Japanese alps set in all their majesty in the background.

Either side of the bridge are a number of hotels, restaurants, coffee shops and souvenir shops. The river runs right through the middle of Kamikochi and walking circuits follow the river upstream or downstream, ending back at the bridge.

These loops are fairly flat walking paths and there are ponds at both ends and options for meals and snacks along the way.

If you are looking for something more adventurous, Kamikochi is the starting point for a number of multi day hikes through the Japanese alps. If you are hiking, ensure that you’re well prepared with the correct equipment, even in summer this area can be cold and wet, and register your plans before attempting any of these hikes. For a Kamikochi Map of walks and hikes and to orientate yourself check the official website.

Accommodation at Kamikochi

To find accommodation in Kamikochi that suits you, check out the official accommodation website. Make sure you note the walking distance from the bus stop to your accommodation, some are over an hour walk from the bus stop, which is a long way with luggage.

The six of us stayed at the Konashidaira Camping Grounds in a log cabin. The English guide is here for the campgrounds and log cabins.

We stayed in the two story log cabin with tatami room upstairs and tatami room downstairs and futons for 8. The cabins also have a kitchen with all your cooking utensils and a toilet, but not a shower. There is a hot communal bath (men and women separate) next to the booking office. If you are camping, the Konashidaira Camping Grounds office can hire out everything that you need for camping and camping supplies including tables, chairs, pegs, sleeping mats, tents, stoves, cutlery and towels for the baths. You could go with nothing and have everything that you need!

The campgrounds also have a small grocery store so you can cook at your campground or in your cabin with everything from noodles and rice and frozen meat, fresh fruit and vegetables, bread, eggs, little bottles of soy sauce, snacks for hiking and of course an assortment of wines by the glass, bottles of sake and cans of beer.

If you don’t feel like cooking then we would highly recommend the restaurant. Order from the vending machine and take a seat until they call the number on your ticket. The restaurant is simple, the meals are excellent and tasty. The Japanese curry was our favourite. Be sure to check the opening hours of the restaurant as it is only open for a very short time in the evening (4pm to 5:20pm when we were there).

Even if you are not staying here you can visit the shop and the restaurant. Many restaurants close early in Kamikochi when the day visitors leave, there are not many options after 5pm.

To book Konashidaira Camping Ground, first check availability here and then email the campground to make a booking as outlined in the English guide.

Day walks

From Kappa bridge there is a circuit walk up river and one down river, each loop is about 2 hours return.

We did the walk North in the morning and came back for lunch. We had planned to walk the South loop in the afternoon but didn’t quite have time to fit this in and still get back before the campground restaurant closed.

North loop – Myojin Pond

The path North follows the river up stream, sometimes along the side of the river and sometimes through the forest.

We came out of the forest to a restaurant (as you do in Japan!) called Myojinkan that had lunch meals, ice cream and beer! and also bathrooms.

At Myojinkan you can cross the river to continue the loop or stay on the left bank to access the hiking trails to Tokusawa and Yokoo and up to the mountain peaks.

We crossed the Azusa river at the Myojin Bridge, from the left bank to the right bank to continue on the loop track.

On the other side of the Myojin bridge is another restaurant and Myojin pond (paid entry).

The path then continues on the right bank until you arrive back at Kappa bridge just in time for lunch!

South loop to Taisho pond

We started this loop from the right bank, walking along the river and past a family of monkeys.

This track passes a number of the hotels and then on to the Reverend Weston Memorial Plaque. Weston was a Christian missionary in Japan from 1888 and is recognised as the father of mountaineering in Japan. He had explored the Swiss alps and brought his love of mountaineering to Japan, introducing the idea of exploring the alps as a recreation.

The Hotaka and Tashiro bridges then cross back to the left bank. From here you can continue down stream to Taisho pond or return to Kappa bridge via the bus station. We returned so that we would not miss dinner at the campground restaurant.

For the South loop it is possible to catch one of the buses to Taisho Pond or to catch a bus back, however, they are not frequent.

Wildlife

Bears

Kamikochi is one area where wearing a bear bell on your pack or walking stick is a good idea. A bear was spotted at the campground just a few days before we were there.

Monkeys

Monkeys can often be seen near the Kappa bridge. They can be aggressive, so it is advised to stay away and not to make eye contact. We had one on the window ledge of our cabin and we were glad of the pane of glass between us and a hissing monkey.

Day trip

Even if you don’t have time for the walks in this area, spending the day at Kappa bridge, enjoying the view, wandering up and down the Azusa river, paddling feet in the freezing cold water and enjoying an apple ice cream and apple pie (love Nagano apples!), Kamikochi is worth the trip. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

For more information

Kamikochi ‘Getting here’ site
Konashidaira Camping Ground English guide
Kamikochi official accommodation website
Bus timetable and Alpico website
Kamikochi Map
Japan guide map with walk timings
Kamikochi live view camera – fun to tell your family back home to check it out so you can wave to them! oh and check the weather