Hiking Mount Tateyama

Hiking Mount Tateyama is like walking on top of the world with majestic sweeping mountains above a sea of clouds. Walking along this mountain ridge line with the track sloping down on your right and left and views in all directions is something you cannot capture on film and something you will remember for the rest of your life!

We did the Murodo loop track which is a two day hike. This hike is at high altitude (3000m) and starts at Murodo station, with a walk half way up the first peak (about 2 hours) to a mountain hut for the nights accommodation. The following day involves a steep climb to the first peak, followed by a walk along the ridge to another four peaks and then a steep scramble back down to the lower walking trails and Murodo station (about 8 hours). This hike is for people that are well equipped and prepared for hiking with moderate to high fitness levels. We would not recommend it for those that have not done hiking before or are unsure of their health or fitness levels.

We completed the hike in early July 2023, at the beginning of the hiking season. The boys were 14, 16 and 18 and are used to hiking with full packs thanks to scouts. We were joined by my brother, who lives in Tokyo. For full information on this hike, visit the official Japan Alps site.

Visiting the Japan alps is an awesome activity to escape the summer heat of the cities – as you can see there is still snow in July!

Day 1 – Tokyo to Murodo and starting the hike

It’s important not to under estimate how long it will take to get from Tokyo to the hike. We left on the first Shinkansen of the day so that we could take our time with the hike and arrive before dark.

Tokyo was a balmy 25^oC degrees when we left on the 7:20am Shinkansen to Toyama. Toyama was still quite warm (29^oC degrees) when we arrived and so we stocked up on drinks and snacks at the convenience stores at the station. We had arranged to drop our luggage at Hotel Vischio a day early. The hotel is located at Toyama station and extremely convenient when visiting the Alpine Route.

Next we needed to find the local trains to start our journey. As you leave the Shinkansen section of Toyama station, turn to the left and head up the escalator to the local trains and The Alpine Route. On the left hand side of the station is the ticket office and the ticket machines for the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (red ticket counter). Here you can purchase return tickets to Murodo which covers the variety of transport modalities for the alpine route, for us this is the train, cable car and bus.

The Alpine Route is a popular tourist route that uses different modes of transport to cross the Japanese Alps from Toyama to Nagano (or vice versa). To access Mount Tateyama, we complete the first three parts of the Alpine route only (train, cable car and bus) to Murodo Station where our hike starts.

Our local train is a cute red train that bounces us through small towns and villages, rice fields and on to the start of the alps. Our train left at 10:50am and we arrived at Tateyama station at 12:00.

On reaching Tateyama station we walked outside to a bench under a tree and enjoyed the lunch that we had bought in Toyama station, including watermelon bread, it is summer after all!

Our next transport was the Tateyama cable car. The 8 minute steep ascent up the mountain left at 12:20pm. Note that if you’re looking at directions via google maps, it does struggle to find this mode of transport and instead suggested we walk this section. There is a walking track but it is very steep and we’d suggest taking the cable car!

After the cable car we line up and wait for the bus. HINT: sit on the left hand side to see the waterfall! The bus left at 12:40 and the 50 minute trip curves along alpine roads. There are a number of sights that are pointed out along the bus route including a waterfall and a very old tree! The bus winds pass the snow wall, which is quite impressive and twice the height of the bus at the beginning of autumn, however, in summer, it was only as tall as the bus.

Disembarking in Murodo Station (1:30pm), the drop in temperature is noticeable, it’s a chilly 17^oC and there is snow…in summer! We fueled up with fresh hot pork buns and filled our water bottles from the cool mountain stream and then we were off to start our hike!

At Murodo station many people stop to do day hikes and walk the tracks at the base of Mount Tateyama, there are beautiful ponds that reflect the mountain ranges, restaurants and an onsen. Many day visitors then continue on to complete the alpine route. As we arrive many people are leaving to ensure they complete the alpine route before the end of the day.

As we set off we have a perfect view of the ridge line that we will be walking for the next two days. Ichi-nokoshi sansou is where we stay for the first night and then a very early start up to the peak of Mount O’yama and along the ridge line with a stop at Tsurugi-gozen koya mountain hut before the descent back down and back to Murodo station.

The path from Murodo station is a wide cobblestone path and easy to walk. However, at this time of year many sections are still covered by snow which is icy and can be slippery. Some sections are steep and it’s worth taking your time to stop and enjoy the phenomenal scenery that just seems to get better with every step!

Just after 3pm we arrived at our accommodation in the mountains for the night, Ichi-nokoshi sansou Mountain hut (2705m). You need to prebook by phone, the website is Japanese only so use google translate. Bookings can be done on the morning of your hike if it’s not busy. Meals are provided (dinner and breakfast), although you can book just accommodation if you prefer. If the weather was not ideal for our hike, we had planned to stay here overnight and then walk back down the following day.

We were given three rooms for the 6 of us, however, we could have fitted in one, and I’m sure if it was busier we would have been asked to fit in one room. The rooms are tatami mat rooms with futons. We were given a disposable pillow protector. There is electricity, however, lights are turned off at 10pm and not on again until late morning (so be aware if you are planning on getting up before sunrise, there are no lights that early in the morning, bring a head torch). The common bathrooms are separate guys and girls. There are no showers. The common dining room is open any time to sit in to chat or play card games and there is a copper kettle in the middle of the room with hot water for green tea. This area is only for those staying at the mountain hut, not day trippers. They also sell 2 min noodles, some snacks and drinks and of course beer and the shop is open to everyone.

While we check in and sort out our rooms the boys decided they hadn’t done enough walking yet and headed head up to the right on a track to Mt. Joudou-san, one of the smaller peaks.

Once the boys were back we played Uno and enjoyed Japanese snacks we had brought with us while we waited for dinner. Our fellow hikers were enjoying cups of green tea and chatting and an elderly couple sat outside sketching the breathtaking mountain range.

Our lodge hosts called us all to dinner at 6pm and we enjoyed an awesome hot meal of rice, soup cabbage, katsu and tea with our fellow hikers. We were also given our bento breakfast ready for us to take with us the following morning.

After dinner we went outside to watch the sunset and marvel at the sea of clouds being held back by the mountain ranges.

It was a freezing wind, however, we had bought some sake in Toyama which we enjoyed as the sun set on one side of the mountains and the moon rose on the other side.

Perfect setting, and perfect end to an awe inspiring day. Early bed so we could get up early the next day for our hike.

Day 2 – Hike the ridge top and back to Toyama

We woke at 3:45 am to catch the sunrise at the top of the next peak but getting ready in the freezing cold and dark took a little longer than expected. We were on our way at 4:15am. We didn’t need head torches as it was already light outside.

The first part of the days walk, from Ichi-nokoshi to Mt. O’yama (3003m), the main peak of Mt. Tateyama mountain range, was incredibly steep and the hardest part of the day. It was a scramble up the rocks. The path is marked on the rocks with red spray paint, highlighting where to go and crosses marked where not to go! The high altitude made this hard work and took us much longer than expected.

O’yama shrine stands at the top of the peak and the views are breathtaking and an amazing reward after the steep climb.

From O’yama the ridge line takes you to the second peak Mt. O-nanji-yama.

Just past the peak is O-nanji rest area which was the perfect spot for us to stop and have our bento breakfast. So good and the perfect setting!

The next peak is Fujino-oritate, the path takes you further across the ridge line and then a tricky climb up to the peak and back down to rejoin the path (so leave your packs, it will make this climb easier).

The next part of the track becomes more open and gravelly with very steep slopes off to the right and left, with sweeping views of the mountain ranges on both sides. The next peak is Mt. Bessan.

Mt Bessan gives 360 degree views as far as the eye can see and as the clouds roll in down below, it gives the feeling that you are on top of the world.

After mount Bessan the path continues to the final peak, Bessan-nokkoshi.

After this the descent begins. We stopped at Tsurugi-gozen koya Mountain hut for lunch of cup noodles, we were too early for lunch which started at 11am. They also had a number of drinks and of course beer!

We thought that the descent would be the easy bit but this was not the case! The course down was rocky and windy and just seemed to keep going!

Finally we arrived at 12pm at the base, at the camp site of Raicho-sawa, we then had to walk uphill again to a volcanic area that looks out of this world and on to Mikuriga ike onsen. We didn’t stop for the onsen but we did stop for blueberry ice cream and lunch since it was about 1pm and we needed a rest!

We were fortunate enough to see a rare Ptarmigan with its chicks near the lake.

After lunch we were keen to start our way back to the hotel at Toyama. So back to the main station, fill up our water bottles from the spring, quick souvenir shop and onto the 2pm bus from Murodo. The bus arrived at the cable car at 2:50 and the cable car left at 3pm. The next local train to Toyama was an express so we needed to pay for the additional express fee on top of the tickets we bought the day before (this was a bit confusing but if you check out the timetable it does highlight the express trains).

We arrived back at Toyama at 4:29pm. Staying at the hotel near the station was a genius move! After checking in and all enjoying a well deserved shower we went out to find the Toyama specialty – seafood! A well deserved delicious fresh meal after an incredible and challenging day of hiking.

Check out the shops in Toyama station. In particular a metal shop that had these perfect souvenirs, sake cups with the Tateyama mountain range and all the peaks that we hiked!

What to pack

Our pack hike list;

• Water bottle
• snacks
• rain jacket
• light weight puffer jacket
• fleece
• gloves
• hat
• beanie
• sunscreen
• change of clothes (for second day)
• basic toiletries – deodorant, toothbrush, washer
• phone charging pack
• ¥100 coins for the toilets
• head torch
• day pack
• map

Wear – hiking pants or shorts, thermal layers, breathable sports shirt, water proof shoes/hiking boots, wool socks, hat and sunscreen.

We hope you will enjoy this challenge and adventure as much as we did!