Hakone
Hakone is an onsen town just outside of Tokyo. It’s a popular get away town for Tokyoites and famous for its traditional ryokan, relaxing onsen and views of Mount Fuji.
If you are looking for a short escape near Tokyo that offers a place to explore with amazing scenery as well as a traditional Japanese experience, then Hakone is the place to go! You can visit Hakone as a day trip, however, we would recommend a weekend trip to appreciate this area and to experience a ryokan (traditional hotel) with kaiseki meal (traditional exquisitely presented multi course meal) and relaxing onsen (hot spring). This is an onsen town after all!
I visited Hakone with my mum and brother in 2016. I knew the kids would love Hakone so we had a trip planned for April 2020, however alas, it was not to be…hopefully someday soon.
How to get to Hakone
From Shinjuku station in Tokyo, you can either take regular trains or the express train called the ‘Romance car’ to Hakone-Yumoto station. The Odakyu website clearly explains the two options and costs, and you can easily purchase the Romance Car tickets online in English (also to Enoshima) with the e-Romacecar link and this step by step guide.
One of the popular tourist activities is the Hakone Round Course. This loop consists of five different transport options (railway, cable car, ropeway, boat and bus) and allows you to take in the main sights of Hakone. Check out the official transport page to ensure all modes of transport are running on the day that you visit. The round course can be done in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction, although most people will complete it in an anticlockwise direction.
After arriving at Hakone Yumoto station catch the Hakone Tozan Railway from Hakone-Yumoto station to Gora. This train winds through beautiful wooded forest. There are a number of stops on the way including the Hakone Open Air Museum. We stopped at Miyanoshita to visit the historic Fujiya Hotel famously visited by many dignitaries including Charlie Chaplin, Helen Keller and John Lennon. We had exquisite morning tea of Charlie Chaplin and autumn themed sweets while overlooking the picturesque gardens.
Back at Miyanoshita station, we tried some of the local sake while waiting for the train to Gora station. At Gora station change for the Hakone Tozan Cable Car. However, if you need to stop for lunch first, I’d recommend this amazing Gyoza restaurant called Gyoza Centre, a short walk from the station. You might need to wait on busy days but it’s worth it!
The Tozan Cable Car climbs up the mountainside from Gora to Sounzan station. From there change to the Hakone Ropeway to reach the top of Owakudani.
On the way up you will pass the sulphur fields which look like something from out of this world. The volcanic activity here is obvious as you pass over the smoking mountainside with seams of yellow sulphur.
At the top of Owakudani there is an amazing view of Mount Fuji, however, when we went to Hakone, it was a windy, overcast day so this was our experience at the top of Owakudani and our view of Mount Fuji – perfect! 😉
Fortunately, my brother has been at other times and could catch these photos for us – the view on a good weather day is something like this!
There are a number of walking paths from the top of Owakudani, however, some are for more experienced hikers.
Black Eggs
While up the top at Owakudani, you can enjoy black eggs. These eggs are cooked in the sulphur streams, thus giving the black colour to the shell. Inside, they taste like regular eggs and so are the perfect protein snack on your day of exploring. Having one egg will add seven years to your life, having two will add fourteen years and having three is just being greedy!
Lake Ashinoko
From Owakudani catch the ropeway down to Togendai on the edge of Lake Ashinoko. The best way to enjoy the lake is from the pirate ships (Yes Pirate ships! I told you the kids would love this) that ferry passengers from Togendai-ko port to the other side of lake Ashinoko (ports Hakonemachi-ko or Motohakone-ko). Pirate ship timetables can be found here.
The pirate ship will dock at both ports, however, it depends on the time of day as to which it will dock at first. You can walk part of the old Tokaido highway between Motohakone and Hakonemachi, it will only take about 15-20 minutes. From port Motohakone there are a number of spots to view Mount Fuji sitting over the lake. Aim to arrive early morning or as the sun is setting (although don’t miss the last pirate ship) to catch the best photos of Mount Fuji.
Once at port Motohakone-ko or Hakonemachi-ko, catch the bus (service information here) back to Hakone-Yumoto station (bus line H). Bus routes and timetables from Motohakone and timetables for Hakonemachi. If you would like to explore more if the old Tokaido highway then you can walk to Amazake or Hatajuku and then catch bus K to Yumoto station. Or if you are staying the night make your way onto your ryokan for a relaxing evening of keiseki meals and onsen.
Hakone Yosegi Zaiku Marquetry and wood craft
Hakone is known for its beautiful mosaic wood craft and clever puzzle boxes so while you are in Hakone take time to admire this artistry and of course take some home as souvenirs! Some places even offer wood craft classes that are suitable for children.
Tokaido and Hakone Checkpoint
Tokaido is the name of the old highway and trade route between Kyoto and Tokyo. The Hakone checkpoint is a reconstruction of the original checkpoint to control traffic into and out of Tokyo and is located in Hakonemachi (right next to the port where the pirate ship docks). You can also walk some of the Tokaido from Motohakone through Hatajuku and on to Hakone-Yumoto. If you’d prefer a shorter walk you can walk part of the Tokaido between Hakonemachi and Motohakone.
Hakone Open Air Museum
The open air museum is a unique art space where a number of outdoor sculptures enable you to take in the mountain scenery while appreciating the artworks. There are a number of rotating exhibitions and permanent exhibitions including a Picasso exhibition. The museum also has a foot bath and zig zag world for kids where kids can play amongst the installations.
Pampas Grass Fields
These fields are located in the Sengoku area and are most popular to view in Autumn when they turn a shimmering golden yellow. The grass fields seem to take on a life of their own as they undulate and wave in the wind.
Ryokan, Onsen and Kaiseki Meal
Hakone is known for its onsen (hot springs) so while in Hakone, do as the locals do and stay in one of the many amazing ryokan (traditional hotel) for a soak in the onsen and a kaiseki meal (multi course formal and amazing Japanese meal). The best way to really feel like a local and enjoy this amazing and unique Japanese onsen town. What a way to end a day of exploring!
Where to stay in Hakone
There are many amazing ryokan in Hakone and they are known for their onsen. So how to choose? Firstly think about what you want in your accommodation;
- Do you want a formal multi course Japanese banquet or Kaiseki meal? If accommodation states ‘half board’ this means that dinner and breakfast are included – usually traditional Japanese meals.
- Do you want to sit in an onsen and look out over mountain views? Then choose somewhere up in the mountains.
- Do you want to stay near the lake to have the opportunity for early morning photos of Mount Fuji over the lake? Then somewhere near Motohakone or Hakonemachi is for you.
- Do you want a tradition ryokan with tatami mats? Note that some older ryokan do not have bathrooms in the room, it is often a shared bathroom, so make sure you check this out if you prefer your own bathroom (or need it for the kids!).
We like to search for ryokan by looking at locations through google maps. Many ryokan can be booked directly with the hotel and a number are listed on booking.com. We love airbnb, however, this is one place where we prefer to book a ryokan for the onsen experience.
If you are going just for the day or staying somewhere without an onsen then check out this site for a list of onsen you can visit as part of a day trip.
We stayed at Mount View Hakone, they have amazing Kaiseki meals, traditional tatami mat rooms and onsen with the famous and rare nigori-yu milky onsen waters. If you’re not so keen on sharing your onsen with strangers, there are private onsen that you can book.
For our 2020 trip we had planned to stay at Hakone Hotel as we were impressed with their Japanese style family room that could accommodate our whole family and the hotel is right on Lake Ashinoko, making it convenient for early morning photos of Mount Fuji.
Where ever you decide to stay – you will have an amazing time in Hakone, even if the weather isn’t great – I can’t wait until we can go and take the kids!
More Info and Links
About Hakone
Hakone Japan – comprehensive site of things to do and see in Hakone
Transport links
e-Romacecar link
Hakone Tozan Bus Services
Hakone Tozan Train and Cable Car
Hakone Ropeway
Hakone Pirate Ship
Hakone Round Course and map
Attraction links
Hakone checkpoint
Open air museum
Black Eggs
Owakudani
Onsen for a day trip
Where we ate and stayed
Fujiya Hotel
Gyoza Centre
Mount View Hakone