Ginzan Onsen
Hidden in the hills of Japan, is a magical onsen town where wooden multi-story ryokans are camped right on the banks of the river. The cobblestone streets, gaslights and red bridges that criss-cross the river add to the romance and nostalgia of this charming town.
Ginzan Onsen was founded in the 1400’s. The town took off with the discovery of a silver mine, ginzan means silver mine in Japanese. The area is also known for its hot springs and dozens of hot spring establishments, or onsens, opened. Ginzan Onsen is a tiny town which consists of one street, either side of the river, lined with ryokan and nestled between the mountains.
Today visitors still come to visit this beautiful town and relax in the onsens. However, to truly enjoy this town we would highly recommend staying overnight in one of the many ryokan (traditional Japanese accommodation).
At night as the day tourists leave and the town quiets. Walk outside into the silently falling snow, lit with the warm glow of the gas lamps and you will be transported into a magical world of an onsen town.
On checking into your ryokan you will be asked what time your would like to have your kaiseki meal. These meals are timed precisely so make sure you are not late and keep in mind the meals can take some time.
You will be shown to your tatami mat room where you will find tea and a sweet ready and waiting for you. Then you can dress in your yukata and slippers, which are usually worn inside the ryokan including going to meals and to the onsen.
At your kaiseki meal you will feel like royalty as you are served dish after dish of amazing Japanese food. They are very accommodating with kids and will often serve foods that are more familiar to them. Encourage the kids to have a taste of as many foods as they can, however, if you have a fussy kids, this may be a challenge so perhaps be prepared with some snacks they can have back in the room afterwards.
For the adults, ask for a local sake to try with your meal. We were also served a delicious wine that was exclusive to our Ryokan.
On return to your room you will find the beds will be set up on the tatami mats for the evening, a sight that is always so cosy!
However, before retiring for the night there is nothing better than a relaxing onsen! Most ryokan will have a men’s and women’s onsen but some will also have private onsen, that can be booked or just turn over the occupied sign – perfect for families!
Ginzan Onsen is not the place for a wild night out, instead, your evening will be filled with strolls along the banks of the river in the gas light, exquisite meals and relaxing onsens. What more could you ask for?
The following day after a kaiseki breakfast and another soak in the onsen, there are a few souvenir shops and cafe’s that are just waiting for your patronage!
During the summer months, there are walks through the mountains including to the old sliver mine. However, in winter this is not accessible so after walking the length of the small town and before the day tourists arrived it was time to move on to the next adventure!
Where to stay
There are a number of ryokan in Ginzan Onsen. We looked at Google maps and then decided which ryokan we wanted to stay in. We chose the enchanting Notoya Ryokan and it was absolutely beautiful with detailed woodwork, decorated windows and elegant flower arrangements. You can book through their official website (Japanese) or through Japanese Guest Houses. Apparently this ryokan was one of the ryokan that inspired the bath house in Spirited Away, a famous Ghibli movie. We loved this place. If you stay here choose the rooms over looking the river.
Who would enjoy this…
Anyone looking for a traditional ryokan, onsen and kaiseki meal experience in the mountains of Japan. It is a little trek out of Tokyo but the shinkansen makes it very accessible.
Would this be good for families? Our boys were 9, 12 and 14 when we went and they loved it! They loved the onsen, the yukata, sleeping on tatami mats, they appreciated the beautiful old building and they truly enjoyed the kaiseki meals, trying most foods. However, in winter there is not a lot to do here and no space to run around, although there is more to explore in summer. If your kids are older then yes definitely. If they are younger then you know what they can and can’t manage so I’ll leave that to you!
How to get here
Ginzan Onsen is tricky to get to in the height of winter, but the sight of this town blanketed in snow is absolutely a once in a lifetime fairytale setting you won’t forget.
By train
From Tokyo, take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Oishida station, this will takes about three hours. Buses leave for Ginzan Onsen every 60-90 minutes and the trip takes 35 minutes.
By car
We rented a car and this can be a great way to explore the area. However, if you do visit in winter, the small roads into this town are tricky when covered in snow! Cars are not allowed to drive in town, however, there is a free public car park outside the town and most ryokan will meet you at the car park to take you and your bags to the ryokan.
Need more info?
Japan Guide
Japan Guest Houses can help you book Ryokan in English
Japan Travel
Japan Experience
